Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm: A Classic Dress Watch Evolved

The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm represents a thoughtful evolution of a classic dress watch, blending traditional horological craftsmanship with contemporary proportions and aesthetic refinements. As part of the permanent collection, this timepiece underscores Blancpain's commitment to elegance and mechanical excellence.

Historical Context and Design Philosophy

The Villeret collection draws its name from the village in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, where Jehan-Jacques Blancpain established his workshop in 1735. This lineage makes Blancpain one of the oldest watchmaking houses, and the Villeret line embodies the brand's classical heritage. The Ultraplate, meaning "ultra-thin," serves as the entry point to this collection, offering a sleek, time-and-date complication in a refined package.

Case and Proportions

For years, the Villeret Ultraplate was available primarily in a 40mm case, aligning with the larger watch trends of the 2010s. However, collector preferences have shifted toward more compact dress watches, leading Blancpain to introduce a 38mm version in 2020. The new model maintains a slender profile at just 8.35mm thick, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 43.35mm, ensuring it sits discreetly on the wrist and slips easily under a cuff. The case has been subtly reshaped to harmonize with the 40mm variants, featuring a polished finish and a stepped bezel that adds depth without ostentation. Available in polished stainless steel or 18k rose gold, the Ultraplate 38mm strikes a balance between formality and versatility.

Dial Variants and Aesthetic Updates

The most notable changes for this iteration are found on the dial. Blancpain introduces a sunray-brushed salmon dial paired with a steel case—a first for the Villeret collection. This warm, copper-toned dial is complemented by a grey strap and darkened 18k white gold hands and markers, creating a sophisticated contrast. The other references feature a smooth opaline finish in a light gold, beige-like hue, available in three configurations: stainless steel with white gold accents, 18k rose gold with matching hands and markers, and a boutique-only edition with a steel case, yellow gold accents, and an olive-toned strap.

Across all versions, the dial has been lightly redesigned. The Roman numerals have been resized for visual balance and are crafted from solid gold with satin-finished upper surfaces and polished bevels. Notably, the traditional XII at 12 o'clock is replaced by the JB monogram, honoring Jehan-Jacques Blancpain. The slender leaf-shaped hands include a thin line of Super-LumiNova, and a date window at 3 o'clock enhances daily practicality.

Movement and Mechanics

Powering the Villeret Ultraplate 38mm is the in-house automatic Calibre 1150. This robust movement offers a generous 4-day power reserve (100 hours) and features a silicon hairspring for improved resistance to magnetic fields and temperature variations. The movement comprises 210 components and 28 jewels, operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. Through the sapphire caseback, one can admire the elegant decoration, including polished bevels and Geneva stripes. Steel models are fitted with a new yellow gold openworked rotor, while the red gold version sports a colour-matched oscillating weight.

Straps and Wearability

Each watch is presented on a nubuck alligator leather strap, available in beige, anthracite, honey, or olive-green, secured by a folding clasp that matches the case material. A tool-free interchangeable strap and buckle system adds convenience, allowing owners to change straps without specialized tools.

Pricing and Availability

The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm is part of the permanent collection. Pricing starts at CHF 9,600 for stainless steel models and reaches CHF 19,700 for the 18k red gold version. The steel model with yellow gold accents on the dial and an olive strap is a boutique exclusive.

Conclusion

With its refined dimensions, new dial options, and impeccable movement, the Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm exemplifies the enduring appeal of a classic dress watch. It caters to collectors who value understated elegance, mechanical integrity, and the heritage of one of watchmaking's most storied brands.