MB&F LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions: Gem-Set Trilogy Review

MB&F has unveiled a trio of gem-set interpretations of its Legacy Machine Perpetual, marking the first time the model features coloured gemstones. The LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions showcase vibrant baguette-cut stones on the bezel, highlighting the mechanical spectacle of the dial-side perpetual calendar complication. This release underscores MB&F's commitment to blending haute horlogerie with artistic gem-setting.

The Legacy Machine Perpetual: A Mechanical Marvel

Introduced in 2015 through a collaboration with independent watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, the Legacy Machine Perpetual represented a significant leap for MB&F into the realm of high-end complications. McDonnell's fully integrated 581-component calibre reimagined the perpetual calendar, placing it dial-side beneath a suspended balance wheel. The mechanism eliminates the fragility of traditional perpetual calendars by employing a default 28-day month and a mechanical processor that ensures accurate date changes. This innovative approach has been praised for its reliability and visual drama, making the LM Perpetual a modern classic.

Design and Gem-Setting

The new Chromatic Editions retain the iconic design of the Legacy Machine family, with its large 14mm balance wheel dominating the dial. The openworked movement reveals suspended black sub-dials for day, date, month, and time, along with a power reserve indicator and retrograde leap year display. However, the standout feature is the bezel, set with 48 baguette-cut gemstones. Baguette cuts, known for their architectural lines and fewer facets, emphasise geometry and restraint over sparkle, aligning perfectly with the LM Perpetual's classical yet futuristic aesthetic.

Each stone is hand-set by STG Creation in Geneva, a specialist in high-end gem-setting. The trilogy comprises two 18k white gold models and one 18k red gold model. The white gold versions feature either blue sapphires from Madagascar and Sri Lanka or purple sapphires, while the red gold is paired with red rubies from Mozambique. The hands are colour-matched: blue PVD for the blue sapphire model, purple PVD for the purple sapphire, and 5N PVD for the ruby edition.

Technical Specifications

• Case: 44mm diameter x 17.5mm thickness; 18k white gold or 18k red gold, brushed and polished
• Gemstones: 48 baguette-cut stones per bezel; blue sapphires (1.95 cts), purple sapphires (1.93 cts), or red rubies (1.95 cts)
• Dial: Openworked with dark mainplate; centrally mounted balance wheel; four suspended black sub-dials for day, date, month, hours and minutes; power reserve indicator and retrograde leap year at 4 and 7 o'clock
• Movement: Fully integrated manual-winding perpetual calendar developed by Stephen McDonnell; 581 components, 41 jewels; 72-hour power reserve; 18,000vph (2.5Hz)
• Strap: Hand-stitched alligator with folding buckle matching case material
• Water Resistance: 30 meters
• Availability: Limited to 8 pieces per edition
• Price: CHF 228,000 / EUR 248,000 / USD 312,000 (excluding VAT)

Collector's Perspective

The LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions are not just watches; they are wearable art. The combination of McDonnell's groundbreaking movement and the meticulous gem-setting creates a unique proposition in the high-end market. While gem-set watches often lean towards feminine designs, the baguette-cut stones here maintain a masculine, architectural appeal. The limited availability of eight pieces per edition ensures exclusivity, making these pieces highly desirable for collectors who appreciate both mechanical innovation and gemstone artistry.

For those familiar with MB&F's output, the Chromatic Editions represent a logical evolution of the LM Perpetual line, which has previously been offered in various metals but never with coloured gems. This release also follows a unique diamond-set edition for Ahmed Seddiqi, but the Chromatic trilogy is the first to incorporate vibrant sapphires and rubies. The result is a striking contrast between the dark, technical dial and the luminous bezel, drawing the eye to the perpetual calendar's complex indications.

Conclusion

The MB&F LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions are a testament to the brand's ability to push boundaries. By integrating coloured gemstones into a highly complicated movement, MB&F has created a trilogy that appeals to both connoisseurs of mechanics and lovers of fine gems. With only eight pieces each, these watches are destined to become coveted collectibles. For more information, visit the official MB&F website.