Ralf Tech Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition Review

The Ralf Tech Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition marks a significant evolution for the French brand known primarily for its rugged diving instruments. Since its introduction in 2019, the Académie has stood out as a classic dress watch within Ralf Tech's portfolio, which is otherwise dominated by professional tools like the WRV and The Beast. The new First Edition, limited to just 22 pieces per dial color, introduces a manufacture movement developed in collaboration with Pequignet, replacing the previous Seiko caliber. This upgrade aligns the watch more closely with Ralf Tech's reputation for technical innovation and French craftsmanship.

A Tribute to Heritage

The Académie is a tribute to founder Frank Huyghe's grandfather, reflecting a personal connection to traditional mechanical watchmaking. Huyghe, a former combat diver, has infused his past into the brand, but the Académie represents a different side—elegance and classic horology. The watch's design, with its polished case and refined dial, contrasts sharply with the brand's tactical models, yet it fits seamlessly into the collection as a versatile dress option.

The Movement: RTM001

The heart of the First Edition is the RTM001, an automatic movement developed by Pequignet, an independent French manufacture based in Morteau, near the Swiss border. This caliber is remarkably thin at just 4.2 millimeters, yet it offers impressive specifications: a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, a power reserve of up to 77 hours, and a stop-second function for precise time setting. The innovative gear train is designed to optimize efficiency and reduce wear, ensuring longevity. According to Ralf Tech, 72% of the movement's components are sourced from France, making the watch truly French in its DNA.

Design and Case

The Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition features a 41-millimeter case crafted from 316L stainless steel with a polished finish. The case is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal, treated with an anti-reflective coating on both sides, and a screw-down case back with a circular sapphire exhibition window, revealing the movement's minimalist architecture. The watch is water-resistant to 50 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for diving. The dial, available in cream or black, is lacquered and hand-polished, with elegant Dauphine hands that catch the light beautifully. The hands and indices are applied, adding to the watch's refined aesthetic.

On the Wrist

Despite its 41mm diameter, the Académie wears comfortably on various wrist sizes, including smaller ones. The watch is paired with a hand-sewn black alligator leather strap, which is soft and supple, and an additional black rubber strap is included for more casual or aquatic occasions. The strap tapers from 22mm at the lugs to a pin buckle, ensuring a secure fit. The overall comfort is exceptional, making it suitable for daily wear, though the polished case may show micro-scratches over time, so it's best reserved for formal or office settings.

Limited Edition and Value

Each dial color is limited to 22 pieces, adding an exclusive appeal. The serial number is engraved on the case back, allowing owners to verify the watch's uniqueness. Priced at €3,300, the Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition offers substantial value for a limited-edition dress watch with a manufacture movement. The combination of French craftsmanship, technical prowess, and elegant design makes it a compelling choice for collectors seeking a distinctive timepiece.

Conclusion

The Ralf Tech Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition successfully elevates the Académie line to new heights. The integration of the RTM001 movement addresses the previous shortfall of the Seiko caliber, providing superior accuracy and a longer power reserve. This watch is a testament to Ralf Tech's commitment to innovation and quality, and it stands as a worthy addition to any collection. With its limited production and exceptional specifications, it is sure to become a sought-after piece among enthusiasts.