Atelier Wen Inflection: Full-Tantalum Integrated Bracelet Watch

Atelier Wen, a Chinese brand founded by two Frenchmen, has steadily gained recognition since its first watches in 2018. After a period of redefinition, the founders introduced the Perception collection, which combined guilloché dials with an integrated, sporty-chic design, proudly made in China. Now, the brand takes a significant leap forward with the launch of the Inflection collection, marking a new chapter in its evolution. The Inflection is notable for being the first non-limited, continuous collection of integrated bracelet watches crafted entirely from tantalum.

The Allure of Tantalum

Tantalum is a rare and highly corrosion-resistant metal, prized in watchmaking for its handsome dark bluish-grey tone, remarkable density, and inertness. It is challenging to machine, which makes its use in watchmaking rare and typically reserved for high-end brands. Historically, tantalum has been used for cases and smaller bracelet components in limited editions, such as the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu or certain Royal Oak models. The Atelier Wen Inflection, however, employs tantalum for the entire case and bracelet, a feat rarely achieved in serial production.

Design and Construction

The Inflection is a design evolution of the Perception, moving from sharp, angular lines to more fluid and organic curves. The watch retains a 40mm diameter, a 45mm lug-to-lug, and a thickness of about 10mm. Familiar elements like the polished concave bezel and lateral 'ears' are preserved, but all surfaces are now softened and rounded, particularly where the case meets the bracelet. The finishing is meticulous, combining vertically brushed surfaces with polished accents on concave areas, which is technically demanding. The case, bracelet, crown, clasp, and even the clasp's push-buttons are made of tantalum, with only small components like screws excluded. The watch features sapphire crystals on both sides, a screw-down crown, and 100 meters of water resistance.

On the wrist, the full-tantalum Inflection is notably heavy, yet the weight is well distributed, offering comfort. A short clasp integrates a four-position micro-adjustment system, operable on the fly by pressing the embossed logo. A quick-release system allows swapping the bracelet for a rubber and sailcloth strap, which is also offered as a more accessible alternative.

Grand Feu Enamel Dials

Three versions of the Inflection are available, each featuring a grand feu enamel dial crafted by the workshop of Kong Lingjun, a renowned Chinese enameler. The launch edition, named 'You', has a hand-hammered silver dial coated in gradient translucent enamel, ranging from pale green to viridian, with white Arabic numerals and rhodium-plated hands. This edition is limited to 30 pieces. The permanent collection includes the 'Mò' model with an obsidian black grand feu enamel dial, gilt Arabic numerals, and 5N gold-plated hands, offering a striking contrast. The 'Yuan' version features a midnight blue grand feu enamel dial with white numerals and rhodium-plated hands. The dials include subtle references to the watch's Chinese origin, such as custom fonts and minute track details. The leaf-shaped hands have a frosted mid-plane and high-polished, deeply concave side planes, creating a triangular profile.

Movement: A Customized Girard-Perregaux Calibre

Atelier Wen has relied on third-party movements since its inception. For the Inflection, the brand collaborated with Girard-Perregaux to extensively modify the GP03300 calibre. The movement features redesigned bridges with curved, sweeping lines inspired by wind motifs in historical Chinese paintings. The bridges are ruthenium-plated with polished bevels and laser-etched wave stripes radiating from the center. The automatic movement operates at 4Hz, offers a 48-hour power reserve, and is wound by a customized rotor with a tungsten weight and five skeletonized brass spokes plated in rose gold. The decoration is consistent throughout, resulting in a visually striking movement visible through the sapphire caseback.

Availability and Pricing

Due to the complexity of tantalum manufacturing, production capacity is limited to 100 pieces annually, with plans to increase gradually. For the first year, 30 pieces of the launch edition will be produced, with the remaining 70 split between the black and blue versions based on demand. Allocation is by application, reviewed internally. The full-tantalum bracelet version is priced at USD 29,800, while the strap version costs USD 19,800. Both prices exclude taxes. The strap version includes a tantalum buckle and is also provided with the bracelet version in a color of the owner's choice. This pricing represents a significant step up for Atelier Wen, justified by the high-end movement, enamel dials, and complex tantalum construction.

Technical Specifications

• Case: 40mm diameter x 45mm lug-to-lug x 10mm thickness, 99.9% pure tantalum, mixed concave and convex surfaces, mirror-polished chamfers, vertical brushing, double-domed sapphire crystal, see-through caseback, screw-down crown, 100m water resistance.
• Dial: Launch Edition 'You' – hand-hammered 925-silver with fumé grand feu enamel; Permanent 'Mò' – obsidian black grand feu enamel; Permanent 'Yuan' – blue grand feu enamel. All with Arabic numerals and tri-planed leaf hands.
• Movement: Customized Girard-Perregaux GP03300, automatic, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, 48h power reserve, ruthenium-plated bridges, tungsten rotor with rose gold-plated spokes, adjusted to 5 positions.
• Bracelet: 99.9% pure tantalum integrated bracelet, 22mm tapering to 18mm, polished mid-links, concave chamfers, on-the-fly micro-adjustment, quick-release system; alternative sailcloth and rubber strap with tantalum buckle.
• Price: USD 29,800 (bracelet), USD 19,800 (strap).

The Atelier Wen Inflection is a bold statement in independent watchmaking, showcasing technical prowess and design ambition. Its full-tantalum construction, enamel dials, and customized movement position it as a noteworthy addition to the luxury watch landscape.